If you have a question about any of the DIY articles on my J30 website, feel free to post here for the benefit of others.
This entry was posted on July 8, 2006 at 8:34 pm and is filed under Infiniti J30. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response or trackback from your own site.
Hi,
Great site. I have been visiting the J30 DIY section on and off for over 6 months now. My latest problem is with the door locks. Occasionally — and randomly — when I close a door, they will all lock. This is obviously a problem, especially if I step out of the car for a minute with the keys still in the ignition. You mentioned a similar problem under your “Door lock issues.” section. Where can I get a replacement door lock timer?
Vishesh, you can find a replacement door lock timer from any Infiniti dealer. If you do not have a dealer near you, you can get them cheaper by ordering online or phone.
Their parts are discounted about 25% from regular Infiniti dealer retail prices. If you can’t find a part on their website, give them a call at 888-216-5328. I prefer to just call rather than use the website to look up parts, etc.
Kelly Casey says: July 15, 2006 at 2:34 pm
Carlos:
Great stuff - I really appreciate your work here. This is the best resource for DIY on J30’s anywhere!
Can you give me the full part number for the door lock timer?
Also, my sunroof just died. It seems the closing cable is broken and it won’t quite seat so that its weatherproof. If I could just get it closed, I wouldn’t ever open it again. Is there any way to get it seated? Or am I looking at a full repair?
Kelly, I do not have the exact part number for the door lock timer. Call the folks at www.everythinginfiniti.com and they will look it up for you.
About the sunroof, there are two cables attached to the sunroof rails on the left and right side of the sunroof lid. It is more like two flexible corkscrews than it is two cables. It is rather thick (about the diameter of a drinking straw). Unfortunately, it sounds as if one of yours has broken. The only fix, is the full repair. However, it is possible to get it to fully close.
When mine broke, I had to help it along with my hand while I tried closing it. It took several tries but I eventually got it to close. It really depends on exactly how badly the cable has failed. The hard part is that you are trying to push the door AND the broken cable.
Usually, only one of the cables breaks (left or right). When that happens, the door tends to want to turn left or right as you try to close it. That is because only one side (your remaining cable) is doing all the work. As the door turns left or right, it binds and does not move down the rail any further. Try to open it some (to straighten the door on the rail). Then try to close it to see which side is lagging and see if you can have someone try to help it along as you try to close it.
Hi Carlos, Awesome job on the website. Sorry to know that you had to let the J30 go. Your new VW does look great though.
I checked your DIY section and noticed that you didn’t have anything there on the timing belt replacement. So I am assuming you got your timing belt replaced by the dealer or some other mechanic. I was wondering did you buy the parts yourself when you did the timing belt replacement. If so can you please help me build a list of what parts I need to buy. If I get mine done through a regular non-dealer shop, I will probably have to supply the parts.
Ash, you’re right, I had my timing belt done by an Independent Infiniti shop in Atlanta. The shop provided all the parts.
That being said, the guys at everythinginfiniti.com (Infiniti of Scottsdale) used to sell a J30 timing belt replacement kit that included all the parts needs to replace the timing belt. Maybe they still have that kit available.
Carlos
George O. says: September 2, 2006 at 3:45 pm
Hi, just a little question before I go find a mechanic. My interior driver side door handle broke off, so I bought a used replacement. I checked your DIY articles to see if it was something I could do myself but have found nothing except how to remove the passenger side door frame. do I HAVE to remove the frame in order to replace the door handle? or is there an easier way?
George, about your door handle. Although I never had to replace the interior door handle. I think it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to replace the handle without removing the door panel.
I think the door handle attaches to a metal rod and I doubt you’ll be able to attach the handle to the rod with the door panel still in place.
Carlos
Kerri Reed says: September 17, 2006 at 10:49 am
Carlos,
You have been a great resource for J30 issues. I seem to have the driver’s side door latch issue. The power locks work..on the panel and with the remote. The door won’t disengage. It would not shut and when if finally would shut..it won’t open. The locks have been working fine. Do u think that it is all door latch? Do u have any suggestions on how to even get the door open in order to get the panel off?? Will this drain my battery? Someone said it might.My husband can replace the parts needed..we just need to figure out how to get the door open. Any help would be great!! also..when I hit the lock button and the doors unlock..you can hear the”motor or actuator in the drivers door run for a few seconds..and then stop…it is right by the handle…..
Kerri, take a look at this NICO forum post. Maybe it will help. To open the door, you’ll have to roll th ewindow down and see if you can stick something inside the door to push on the metal rod that opens the door since it indeed sounds like the latch is dead.
Hello Carlos,
Thanks for the website info. I repaired my door lockong problem with a new door lock timer.
I have a new problem now, 95 J30T.
My tach stopped working. When car is started tac is at zero and slowly climbs on it own over time. The revs of the engine do not effect it. Any thoughts?
This is Ash again with the 93 J30. First of all, let me thank you for your last reply. I truelly appreciate your effort in helping us out and want to congratulate you on your websites name published on a Used car review of J30s.
I am here today with a question (ofcourse). I read your article on removing fuel injectors. My J30 started idling rough today but I don’t see any CEL. Will the engine show CEL if it has a bad fuel injector? I had the throttle body etc. cleaned with some new plugs recently. I am guessing one of the coil pack might have gone bad as well. Is there a way to see if any of my coil pack is bad?
Also in case I have to remove one or more of my fuel injector, did you have to grind the plenum for all the injectors or just #6 injector?
Ash, I’m not sure if the car will throw a CEL for a bad fuel injector. I don’t think it will but I’m not 100% sure.
I’ve never had to troubleshoot a bad coil so I’m not sure how you’d go about it.
About the plenum, I think you only need to that for the #6 injector. Good luck.
Sorry I could not really help you with all your questions.
Karthik says: October 17, 2006 at 9:57 pm
Hi Carlos,
Thank you for this wonderful resource. I was able to successfully trouble shoot my car door issue using your instructions.
I have an 1995 infiniti j30, The check engine light kept coming on intermittently. Autozone and others mentioned they can only read the code if the light is on when I am at their shop. Furthermore they say that they only have ab OBDII tool which cannot read a 1995 error codes. This was happening for 2-3 months and now the check engine light is permanently on.
Is there somewhere I can buy a tool/gadget that can read the error codes of a 1995 car. I have found a list of codes online but they all are for the obd II. Can you point me to a link that has info about obd I error codes.
Karthik. For OBD1 J30’s (1993-1995), you can get the code by looking at the LED light on the ECU itself (should be in the front, passenger side kick panel). You don’t have to buy a thing!
Here are the instructions…
On J30, M30 and Q45 models, the ECU is located behind the RH kick panel.
If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink. To read Code output, proceed as follows:
1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.
2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.
3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.
4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.
Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.
Once you have the numeric code, here is what they mean:
11 Crank Angle Sensor
12 Mass Air Flow Sensor
13 ECT Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
16 TCS Signal
21 Ignition Signal Circuit
25 Idle Air Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Control
31 ECM
32 EGR Function
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
42 Fuel Pump Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
46 Secondary Throttle Sensor
51 Injector Analysis
53 EGR Temperature Sensor (LH)
54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM
65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire
72 Three Way catalyst Function
76 Fuel Injection System Function
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch
105 EGR & Canister Control Solenoid
Jay says: May 9, 2007 at 10:28 pm
Does anyone know what this part # is 28575-13y00. I believe in the diy headlight section, if you scroll down to the “harness layout diagram”it is part E8. It looks just like the headlight relay but isn’t. My electrical guy thought it was, tried to sodder the contacts and now the case doesn’t stay on (very brittle). I was just wondering because I might replace it for safety sake. Thanks.
Brett says: June 12, 2007 at 10:36 am
Great site! thanks for all the helpful info. I’m considering replacing the bose headunit in my Maxima and I was wondering if you had any sound quality issues when using the scosche adapter? I read somewhere that bose uses a different grounding system and wasn’t sure if that would cause a problem. Does your aftermarket stereo sound just as good working with the bose speakers and amps?
G. Hung says: July 18, 2007 at 1:13 pm
Crutchfield now has information on the J30!!!!
Eric says: July 22, 2007 at 10:07 pm
I love this site! I was wondering if you knew of a way to use the built in microphone and/or antenna with a regular cell phone. Thanks
Are you sure the J30 has a built-in microphone? That black square next to the radio is not a microphone, it’s part of the AC system. In any case, the J30 phone was operated by an external controller mounted in the trunk (near the rear speakers). I doubt that you’ll find anything that will connect to the existing phone harness and let you use a modern phone. The old setup was not wireless AND it’s no longer supported by cell phone carriers because it only uses the old analog (not digital) cell phone band.
Eric says: July 25, 2007 at 7:48 pm
Thanks! It does have a prewired microphone. It is located to the left of the cruise control on/off switches. I didn’t think it would work, but thanks for the answer. I have used two of your DIY instructions and they have worked great!
Joe says: July 29, 2007 at 4:07 pm
Hi Carlos,
I had my sunroof panel replace base on your instruction and it works good ever since.Thanks for your time and all the efforts.
Now I have another problem My A/C started acting funny..here is how it goes..it stop working one day and I had my mechanic look at it and the code was #25 ( from A/C panel So I have the sun sensor replaced now it just work on its own term… sometime it work for 1/2 hour and sometime just blow the fan at full speed (no A/C). When the car slows down it will stop (still have the fan blowing) but if I accelerate it will started again (sometime)..I just wondering its another sensor somewhere that cause this problem? Thanks!
Joe
Elisha says: August 1, 2007 at 10:52 pm
Hi Carlos,
I have a failed latch issue or so I assume for my rear passenger door. I have the replacement latch from a wrecked J30 for the past 2 years but have found no way to pop the panel without being able to open the door.
Any suggestions on how to get the panel off without having to break anything?
If the door would open….I would not have this issue but unfortunately it does not.
Thanks in advance.
D says: August 9, 2007 at 3:12 pm
This site is a God send! I was having problems with one of my J30’s headlight turning on/off intermittently while I’m driving! Thank god the other side is ok and stable. I found that the possible culprit may be the headlight relay box, form this site. I tried to call to buy the relay at EverythingNissan.com but they told me it’s ~34 for the part and another ~10 to ship so total about $44 shipped. Could you let me know how you got the relay shipped form $25…that would be most helpful!
I just want to get this fixed so I can put my HID lights back on. =)
Metin says: September 16, 2007 at 10:44 am
I use this website a lot. Thanks for the great work.
I am going to change the sway bar links. It looks like one of them is broken and it makes rattling noise all the time. But I couldn’t find any information on your website or online. I saw them changed before. The screws were really rusty. Can you send me some suggestions about the procedure if you have any?
jeremy says: September 25, 2007 at 2:20 am
i have a 1995 j30 . my baterry keeps going dead. i went and got brand new battery and now it is getting drained. iam not sure if it is my altenator or if i am missing a belt . does anyone have a diagram ? if so could u email me at jeremyhall21@hotmail.com. i can see 2 belts on there but i dont know if there is one behind altenator
phi leinbach says: October 15, 2007 at 12:28 pm
i do not have a repair manual and need to replace the blower motor on a 95 j30. any suggestions - is the motor inside or outside. supplier suggestions - etc.
thanks phil
Juan says: October 16, 2007 at 8:36 pm
I use this website a lot.
When I turn on my lights the high beams stay on. Even without activating the high beam button. The high beam indicator light on the dash stays on all the time. Also all my corner lights/license plate light do not turn on. Could this be the cause of the headlight relay malfunctioning?
Jerry says: October 27, 2007 at 8:12 pm
my J30 is having door unlocking problems. I try to unlock my passenger side door with my key. The door indacader dosent move. I try to manualy pull the indcater and it dosent move. Whats wrong with my lock?
Carlos says: October 29, 2007 at 10:01 am
Juan, about your lights issue. It does not sound like your the headlight relay. The headlight relay issue makes the headlights flicker but no high beam indicator nor issues with the license plate.
Carlos says: October 29, 2007 at 10:02 am
Jerry, about your door lock. What is indacader (indicator?). Do you mean the door handle?
I have a question. Can anyone tell me where the door lock timer is located on a 1993 J30?
Phil
Carlos says: November 6, 2007 at 8:15 pm
Phil, go to my J30 DIY page… (http://www.fuzzycats.com/j30_diy.htm) and read the “Door Lock Issues” .pdf file. On page 2, there’s a diagram showing where the door lock timer is.
Carlos
Bill Even says: January 7, 2008 at 9:36 pm
I need to replace the switch to the power seat on the driver’s side. Can anyone help me figure out how to remove the trim that holds the power switch from the seat?
Phil says: April 10, 2008 at 8:12 am
Hi, I red your article on replacing the Bose head unit. Mine has died in my J30t. How do you remove the old one without damaging the woodgrain?
Howard Schultz says: January 29, 2009 at 9:25 pm
I read the article on adding A CD Changer. Has any one added an Ipod/PM3 to a 1995 J30 using the CD changer port?
Crutchfield is not clear. When selecting the J30 model, I only get Factory installed radio as an option and they have an Ipod unit. But, it never mentions Bose. Maybe not an issue since Bose was standard?
Greg says: February 21, 2009 at 3:46 am
Phil,
I know its been a while since your BOSE post, but I wanted to answer it in case anyone else is not aware; the BOSE units in the J30 tended to have the same problems- Power IC’s go bad, CD transfer motors go bad, display lighting goes bad, etc. The best place for info is the BOSE Factory Repair Center, now called “Carstereoremoval.com”: http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/stereoremovalInfinitiJ3093_96P.htm
$8 for the incredibly detailed, Factory-correct instructions. Well worth it!
Greg
Josh says: March 18, 2009 at 11:34 am
I am changing a fuel injector on the #3 cylinder for a co-worker. I figured since I was doing that I could change the spark plugs also. Is there any walkthrough on changing the spark plugs on a 94 J30. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
July 9, 2006 at 9:32 pm
Hi,
Great site. I have been visiting the J30 DIY section on and off for over 6 months now. My latest problem is with the door locks. Occasionally — and randomly — when I close a door, they will all lock. This is obviously a problem, especially if I step out of the car for a minute with the keys still in the ignition. You mentioned a similar problem under your “Door lock issues.” section. Where can I get a replacement door lock timer?
July 9, 2006 at 11:14 pm
Vishesh, you can find a replacement door lock timer from any Infiniti dealer. If you do not have a dealer near you, you can get them cheaper by ordering online or phone.
I usually get my parts from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com/. This site is run by the parts department at Infiniti of Scottsdale (AZ).
Their parts are discounted about 25% from regular Infiniti dealer retail prices. If you can’t find a part on their website, give them a call at 888-216-5328. I prefer to just call rather than use the website to look up parts, etc.
July 15, 2006 at 2:34 pm
Carlos:
Great stuff - I really appreciate your work here. This is the best resource for DIY on J30’s anywhere!
Can you give me the full part number for the door lock timer?
Also, my sunroof just died. It seems the closing cable is broken and it won’t quite seat so that its weatherproof. If I could just get it closed, I wouldn’t ever open it again. Is there any way to get it seated? Or am I looking at a full repair?
Thanks so much!!
- kc
July 15, 2006 at 10:11 pm
Kelly, I do not have the exact part number for the door lock timer. Call the folks at www.everythinginfiniti.com and they will look it up for you.
About the sunroof, there are two cables attached to the sunroof rails on the left and right side of the sunroof lid. It is more like two flexible corkscrews than it is two cables. It is rather thick (about the diameter of a drinking straw). Unfortunately, it sounds as if one of yours has broken. The only fix, is the full repair. However, it is possible to get it to fully close.
When mine broke, I had to help it along with my hand while I tried closing it. It took several tries but I eventually got it to close. It really depends on exactly how badly the cable has failed. The hard part is that you are trying to push the door AND the broken cable.
Usually, only one of the cables breaks (left or right). When that happens, the door tends to want to turn left or right as you try to close it. That is because only one side (your remaining cable) is doing all the work. As the door turns left or right, it binds and does not move down the rail any further. Try to open it some (to straighten the door on the rail). Then try to close it to see which side is lagging and see if you can have someone try to help it along as you try to close it.
Good luck with it.
August 23, 2006 at 12:37 am
Hi Carlos, Awesome job on the website. Sorry to know that you had to let the J30 go. Your new VW does look great though.
I checked your DIY section and noticed that you didn’t have anything there on the timing belt replacement. So I am assuming you got your timing belt replaced by the dealer or some other mechanic. I was wondering did you buy the parts yourself when you did the timing belt replacement. If so can you please help me build a list of what parts I need to buy. If I get mine done through a regular non-dealer shop, I will probably have to supply the parts.
Hope to hear from you. Take care.
Ash
August 23, 2006 at 4:15 pm
Ash, you’re right, I had my timing belt done by an Independent Infiniti shop in Atlanta. The shop provided all the parts.
That being said, the guys at everythinginfiniti.com (Infiniti of Scottsdale) used to sell a J30 timing belt replacement kit that included all the parts needs to replace the timing belt. Maybe they still have that kit available.
Carlos
September 2, 2006 at 3:45 pm
Hi, just a little question before I go find a mechanic. My interior driver side door handle broke off, so I bought a used replacement. I checked your DIY articles to see if it was something I could do myself but have found nothing except how to remove the passenger side door frame. do I HAVE to remove the frame in order to replace the door handle? or is there an easier way?
September 4, 2006 at 6:13 pm
George, about your door handle. Although I never had to replace the interior door handle. I think it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to replace the handle without removing the door panel.
I think the door handle attaches to a metal rod and I doubt you’ll be able to attach the handle to the rod with the door panel still in place.
Carlos
September 17, 2006 at 10:49 am
Carlos,
You have been a great resource for J30 issues. I seem to have the driver’s side door latch issue. The power locks work..on the panel and with the remote. The door won’t disengage. It would not shut and when if finally would shut..it won’t open. The locks have been working fine. Do u think that it is all door latch? Do u have any suggestions on how to even get the door open in order to get the panel off?? Will this drain my battery? Someone said it might.My husband can replace the parts needed..we just need to figure out how to get the door open. Any help would be great!! also..when I hit the lock button and the doors unlock..you can hear the”motor or actuator in the drivers door run for a few seconds..and then stop…it is right by the handle…..
September 17, 2006 at 8:29 pm
Kerri, take a look at this NICO forum post. Maybe it will help. To open the door, you’ll have to roll th ewindow down and see if you can stick something inside the door to push on the metal rod that opens the door since it indeed sounds like the latch is dead.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=58250
Good luck, Carlos
September 18, 2006 at 11:20 am
Hello Carlos,
Thanks for the website info. I repaired my door lockong problem with a new door lock timer.
I have a new problem now, 95 J30T.
My tach stopped working. When car is started tac is at zero and slowly climbs on it own over time. The revs of the engine do not effect it. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Richard
September 30, 2006 at 7:23 pm
Hi Carlos,
This is Ash again with the 93 J30. First of all, let me thank you for your last reply. I truelly appreciate your effort in helping us out and want to congratulate you on your websites name published on a Used car review of J30s.
I am here today with a question (ofcourse). I read your article on removing fuel injectors. My J30 started idling rough today but I don’t see any CEL. Will the engine show CEL if it has a bad fuel injector? I had the throttle body etc. cleaned with some new plugs recently. I am guessing one of the coil pack might have gone bad as well. Is there a way to see if any of my coil pack is bad?
Also in case I have to remove one or more of my fuel injector, did you have to grind the plenum for all the injectors or just #6 injector?
Thanks again in advance.
Sincerely,
Ash
October 1, 2006 at 7:47 pm
Ash, I’m not sure if the car will throw a CEL for a bad fuel injector. I don’t think it will but I’m not 100% sure.
I’ve never had to troubleshoot a bad coil so I’m not sure how you’d go about it.
About the plenum, I think you only need to that for the #6 injector. Good luck.
Sorry I could not really help you with all your questions.
October 17, 2006 at 9:57 pm
Hi Carlos,
Thank you for this wonderful resource. I was able to successfully trouble shoot my car door issue using your instructions.
I have an 1995 infiniti j30, The check engine light kept coming on intermittently. Autozone and others mentioned they can only read the code if the light is on when I am at their shop. Furthermore they say that they only have ab OBDII tool which cannot read a 1995 error codes. This was happening for 2-3 months and now the check engine light is permanently on.
Is there somewhere I can buy a tool/gadget that can read the error codes of a 1995 car. I have found a list of codes online but they all are for the obd II. Can you point me to a link that has info about obd I error codes.
Thank You
Sincerely
Karthik K
October 19, 2006 at 10:01 pm
Karthik. For OBD1 J30’s (1993-1995), you can get the code by looking at the LED light on the ECU itself (should be in the front, passenger side kick panel). You don’t have to buy a thing!
Here are the instructions…
On J30, M30 and Q45 models, the ECU is located behind the RH kick panel.
If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink. To read Code output, proceed as follows:
1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.
2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.
3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.
4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.
Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.
Once you have the numeric code, here is what they mean:
11 Crank Angle Sensor
12 Mass Air Flow Sensor
13 ECT Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
16 TCS Signal
21 Ignition Signal Circuit
25 Idle Air Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Control
31 ECM
32 EGR Function
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
42 Fuel Pump Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
46 Secondary Throttle Sensor
51 Injector Analysis
53 EGR Temperature Sensor (LH)
54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM
65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire
72 Three Way catalyst Function
76 Fuel Injection System Function
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch
105 EGR & Canister Control Solenoid
May 9, 2007 at 10:28 pm
Does anyone know what this part # is 28575-13y00. I believe in the diy headlight section, if you scroll down to the “harness layout diagram”it is part E8. It looks just like the headlight relay but isn’t. My electrical guy thought it was, tried to sodder the contacts and now the case doesn’t stay on (very brittle). I was just wondering because I might replace it for safety sake. Thanks.
June 12, 2007 at 10:36 am
Great site! thanks for all the helpful info. I’m considering replacing the bose headunit in my Maxima and I was wondering if you had any sound quality issues when using the scosche adapter? I read somewhere that bose uses a different grounding system and wasn’t sure if that would cause a problem. Does your aftermarket stereo sound just as good working with the bose speakers and amps?
July 18, 2007 at 1:13 pm
Crutchfield now has information on the J30!!!!
July 22, 2007 at 10:07 pm
I love this site! I was wondering if you knew of a way to use the built in microphone and/or antenna with a regular cell phone. Thanks
July 23, 2007 at 6:44 am
Are you sure the J30 has a built-in microphone? That black square next to the radio is not a microphone, it’s part of the AC system. In any case, the J30 phone was operated by an external controller mounted in the trunk (near the rear speakers). I doubt that you’ll find anything that will connect to the existing phone harness and let you use a modern phone. The old setup was not wireless AND it’s no longer supported by cell phone carriers because it only uses the old analog (not digital) cell phone band.
July 25, 2007 at 7:48 pm
Thanks! It does have a prewired microphone. It is located to the left of the cruise control on/off switches. I didn’t think it would work, but thanks for the answer. I have used two of your DIY instructions and they have worked great!
July 29, 2007 at 4:07 pm
Hi Carlos,
I had my sunroof panel replace base on your instruction and it works good ever since.Thanks for your time and all the efforts.
Now I have another problem My A/C started acting funny..here is how it goes..it stop working one day and I had my mechanic look at it and the code was #25 ( from A/C panel So I have the sun sensor replaced now it just work on its own term… sometime it work for 1/2 hour and sometime just blow the fan at full speed (no A/C). When the car slows down it will stop (still have the fan blowing) but if I accelerate it will started again (sometime)..I just wondering its another sensor somewhere that cause this problem? Thanks!
Joe
August 1, 2007 at 10:52 pm
Hi Carlos,
I have a failed latch issue or so I assume for my rear passenger door. I have the replacement latch from a wrecked J30 for the past 2 years but have found no way to pop the panel without being able to open the door.
Any suggestions on how to get the panel off without having to break anything?
If the door would open….I would not have this issue but unfortunately it does not.
Thanks in advance.
August 9, 2007 at 3:12 pm
This site is a God send! I was having problems with one of my J30’s headlight turning on/off intermittently while I’m driving! Thank god the other side is ok and stable. I found that the possible culprit may be the headlight relay box, form this site. I tried to call to buy the relay at EverythingNissan.com but they told me it’s ~34 for the part and another ~10 to ship so total about $44 shipped. Could you let me know how you got the relay shipped form $25…that would be most helpful!
I just want to get this fixed so I can put my HID lights back on. =)
September 16, 2007 at 10:44 am
I use this website a lot. Thanks for the great work.
I am going to change the sway bar links. It looks like one of them is broken and it makes rattling noise all the time. But I couldn’t find any information on your website or online. I saw them changed before. The screws were really rusty. Can you send me some suggestions about the procedure if you have any?
September 25, 2007 at 2:20 am
i have a 1995 j30 . my baterry keeps going dead. i went and got brand new battery and now it is getting drained. iam not sure if it is my altenator or if i am missing a belt . does anyone have a diagram ? if so could u email me at jeremyhall21@hotmail.com. i can see 2 belts on there but i dont know if there is one behind altenator
October 15, 2007 at 12:28 pm
i do not have a repair manual and need to replace the blower motor on a 95 j30. any suggestions - is the motor inside or outside. supplier suggestions - etc.
thanks phil
October 16, 2007 at 8:36 pm
I use this website a lot.
When I turn on my lights the high beams stay on. Even without activating the high beam button. The high beam indicator light on the dash stays on all the time. Also all my corner lights/license plate light do not turn on. Could this be the cause of the headlight relay malfunctioning?
October 27, 2007 at 8:12 pm
my J30 is having door unlocking problems. I try to unlock my passenger side door with my key. The door indacader dosent move. I try to manualy pull the indcater and it dosent move. Whats wrong with my lock?
October 29, 2007 at 10:01 am
Juan, about your lights issue. It does not sound like your the headlight relay. The headlight relay issue makes the headlights flicker but no high beam indicator nor issues with the license plate.
October 29, 2007 at 10:02 am
Jerry, about your door lock. What is indacader (indicator?). Do you mean the door handle?
November 6, 2007 at 1:12 am
I have a question. Can anyone tell me where the door lock timer is located on a 1993 J30?
Phil
November 6, 2007 at 8:15 pm
Phil, go to my J30 DIY page… (http://www.fuzzycats.com/j30_diy.htm) and read the “Door Lock Issues” .pdf file. On page 2, there’s a diagram showing where the door lock timer is.
Carlos
January 7, 2008 at 9:36 pm
I need to replace the switch to the power seat on the driver’s side. Can anyone help me figure out how to remove the trim that holds the power switch from the seat?
April 10, 2008 at 8:12 am
Hi, I red your article on replacing the Bose head unit. Mine has died in my J30t. How do you remove the old one without damaging the woodgrain?
January 29, 2009 at 9:25 pm
I read the article on adding A CD Changer. Has any one added an Ipod/PM3 to a 1995 J30 using the CD changer port?
Crutchfield is not clear. When selecting the J30 model, I only get Factory installed radio as an option and they have an Ipod unit. But, it never mentions Bose. Maybe not an issue since Bose was standard?
February 21, 2009 at 3:46 am
Phil,
I know its been a while since your BOSE post, but I wanted to answer it in case anyone else is not aware; the BOSE units in the J30 tended to have the same problems- Power IC’s go bad, CD transfer motors go bad, display lighting goes bad, etc. The best place for info is the BOSE Factory Repair Center, now called “Carstereoremoval.com”:
http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/stereoremovalInfinitiJ3093_96P.htm
$8 for the incredibly detailed, Factory-correct instructions. Well worth it!
Greg
March 18, 2009 at 11:34 am
I am changing a fuel injector on the #3 cylinder for a co-worker. I figured since I was doing that I could change the spark plugs also. Is there any walkthrough on changing the spark plugs on a 94 J30. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.